At Bichettes in Paris, chef Hortense Thireau prepares a unique puff pastry-topped French onion soup that is lighter and brighter than classic versions. For our adaptation of her dish, crock-like oven-safe bowls, each with a 12-ounce capacity, are best, but it’s possible to make the recipe without them. In that case, while the onions caramelize, bake the egg-washed, cheese-sprinkled pastry rounds on a parchment-lined baking sheet for 25 to 30 minutes. Once the soup is portioned, top each bowl with a baked round.
Dufour frozen puff pastry, which is made with real butter, is the hands-down best choice for this. If Pepperidge Farm frozen puff pastry is the only option, you’ll need just one sheet from a 17.3-ounce box. After thawing and unfolding, if the sheet is too small to yield four rounds that are slightly wider than your bowls, give it a few passes under a rolling pin so it’s just large enough. (Dufour pastry will not need to be rolled out unless your bowls are very wide.)
Avoid using a wide pot, such as a Dutch oven, as the greater surface area allows faster evaporation of moisture, which increases the likelihood of browning before the onions fully soften. Also, stir the onions more often as they begin to color to prevent the flavorful fond that forms on the bottom of the pot from scorching.
4 tablespoons salted butter
1½ pounds (3 medium) yellow onions, halved and cut crosswise into ¹/₈-inch slices
2 tablespoons fresh thyme
4 bay leaves
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
5 ounces Comté or Gruyère cheese, shredded (1¼ cups)
All-purpose flour, for dusting
14-ounce package Dufour frozen puff pastry, thawed (see headnote)
2 tablespoons cornstarch
¹/₃ cup dry vermouth
1 quart low-sodium chicken broth
1 large egg yolk, beaten
In a large saucepan set over medium heat, melt the butter. Stir in the onions, thyme, bay, and ¾ teaspoon salt. Cover and cook, stirring only occasionally at the start, then more often once browning begins, until the onions are lightly golden and deep browning has formed on the bottom of the pot, about 45 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the oven to 375 degrees with a rack in the middle position. Place four 12-ounce oven-safe bowls on a rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle ¼ cup cheese in each; set aside. Lightly flour a counter and unfold the thawed puff pastry onto it; dust the surface with flour. Using a paring knife, cut out four rounds from the pastry, each about ½ inch larger than the diameter of the bowl. Stack the pastry rounds on a large plate and refrigerate, uncovered, until ready to use.
Uncover the pot and stir in the cornstarch.
Add the vermouth and cook, scraping up the browned bits, until the mixture is homogeneous and thickened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the broth, 1 cup water, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until lightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Off heat, remove and discard the bay. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
Divide the soup evenly among the bowls. Working one at a time, brush a thin layer of egg yolk around the rim, then place a pastry round on top; gently press around the rim of the bowl to secure the pastry. Once all four bowls are lidded, brush the pastry rounds with the remaining yolk and sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Bake until the pastry is puffed and golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Serve right away.
Red Lentil Soup
Makes 4 servings
This simple yet robust soup is rich with butter and earthy paprika. Red lentils cook quickly and become creamy as they break down. The infused butter that’s drizzled on at the end gives the soup a moderate heat; adjust it by reducing or increasing the red pepper flakes. If you like, garnish with chopped fresh mint.
6 tablespoons salted butter, cut into 1-tablespoon pieces, divided
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 cup red lentils
Kosher salt
Big pinch of red pepper flakes
In a large saucepan, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until golden brown. Stir in the 1 tablespoon paprika and the cumin, lentils, 4½ cups water, and 2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a simmer, then cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, in an 8-inch skillet, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons butter. Swirl in the remaining 1 teaspoon paprika and the pepper flakes, then cook until the butter turns red.
Serve the soup drizzled with the butter.
Chicken and Tortilla Soup
Makes 4 to 6 servings
A favorite in homes and restaurants throughout Mexico and beyond, tortilla soup is a great way to use old, stale corn tortillas in your refrigerator. In this recipe, they do double duty: some are fried to create a crisp topping, while the rest are simmered into the broth, where they break down and give the soup body.
The combination of chili powder, cumin, and fire-roasted tomatoes lends smoky richness to the broth, and shredded chicken turns the soup into a full meal.
Embellish with more garnishes if you like. We like it with any combination of sliced radishes, sliced jalapeño chilies, chopped fresh cilantro, chopped avocado, grated cheese (we like cheddar, Monterey jack, or crumbled cotija), or sour cream or Mexican crema.
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Six 6-inch corn tortillas, cut into 1/2 -inch strips
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1 medium red or yellow onion, chopped, plus more to serve
2 tablespoons chili powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
28-ounce can diced fire-roasted tomatoes
1 quart low-sodium chicken broth
Two 8-ounce boneless, skinless chicken breasts
2 tablespoons lime juice
In a large pot set over medium heat, warm the oil until it shimmers. Add half of the tortilla strips and cook, without stirring, until slightly firm, about 30 seconds. Toss with tongs, then cook, tossing often, until browned and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and sprinkle with salt; set aside.
To the same pot over medium heat, add the onion and ½ teaspoon salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the chili powder and cumin; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.Add the tomatoes with juices and the broth. Bring to a simmer over high heat, then add the remaining tortilla strips and the chicken breasts. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the tortillas have broken down and the thickest part of the chicken registers 160 degrees, 15 to 20 minutes.
Remove the pot from the heat, then transfer the chicken to a plate. Using 2 forks, shred the meat into bite-size pieces. Stir the chicken into the pot and cook over medium heat, stirring, until warmed through, about 1 minute.
Off heat, stir in the lime juice, then taste and season with salt and pepper. Garnish with the fried tortilla strips and additional chopped onion.
Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, home to a magazine, school, and radio and television shows. Globe readers get 12 weeks of complete digital access, plus two issues of Milk Street print magazine, for just $1. Go to 177milkstreet.com/globe. Send comments to [email protected].
